October 31st, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 98
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Trick or Treat? How many waves did I catch today? One. Just one windy wave.
I rode that one windy wave and thought about Lil Miss Molly. It's Halloween. It's a Holiday for kids. I was thinking that maybe Molly and her new friends in heaven were going Trick or Treating today. Have fun Molly...don't eat too much candy.
HAPPY HALLOWEEN!

That's 98, only 267 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 30th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 97
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I'm going to miss you October. I love October. I wait all year for you to get here, and then "just like that" you are gone. Although, there was not as many October Swells as there have been in the past. Still, I'll miss you. After tomorrow, it's the start of the REAL beginning of the cold. Oh boy...

I only caught one today. One wave for Molly. I almost slipped off my board and got my Molly hat wet today. But I caught myself. I love wearing the Molly Hat. I've often said, I wear many hats. Well my Molly hat is for my daily surf. I just don't want to lose it out there. But I won't. I only wear it when I know the surf is small. It was small today.
My Molly hat stayed dry.

That's 97, only 268 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


October 29th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 96
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

"I just have to ride a wave the length of my board." I told the couple walking the beach this morning. "Well you went farther than that." The man said. "Yes, but not on the first two attempts." I answered. Then I explained what I was doing. They looked surprised. "Have fun this winter." The man said as I walked off.
"Thanks...I will."

Walking back up the stairs I saw my friend Barbara Savastano. She was trying to get a pic on her cellphone. But the sun was wrong. Speaking of pics...check this out. I shot this yesterday after I surfed. I'm calling it "Eva's Sky. "

I shot it at the Wall when I went back to snap some pics of the surf. I love images like this. Look up in the sky.

That's 96, only 269 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


October 28th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 95
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

"Happy Birthday Ma...I love you." And with those words and a sharp hand salute, I kicked out of the 2 foot wave and called it a day. One wave today. Just one.

Today would of been my Mother's 86th Birthday. Those who knew her well would tell you, if not for cancer, she would of lived to be 100. Seriously. Nothing could hold her back. Nothing but cancer. Even now, some 3 years later, it's still hard to believe she's gone. We all miss her. This is a photo taken in 2004. It was her 80th birthday party.

She is surrounded by her grandchildren. She looks happy. What the camera does not pick up, is the cancer that was slowly eating away at her. Because a year later, she was diagnosed with ovarian cancer. Two years later, she was gone. Just like that.

I'm doing this fund raiser by surfing a wave everyday because of Molly, and my Mother, and all the rest who have suffered through this awful disease. We all know someone who has been affected by cancer. I'm doing it for them and their families.
Happy Birthday Ma...

That's 95, only 270 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 27th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 94
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Even when the rain is falling, the colors of New England are worth stopping to take it all in. The low level fast moving clouds this morning, racing along under the stationary cobalt blue gray sky was another reason to stop and stare. And I did. Taking it all in. Not a soul in the water again. Just a man walking his dog in the rain.

It took me three separate attempts to go the prescribed 9 feet. But I finally did.

In the past I've been asked "Who documents each day? How do we know you are surfing everyday?" Well, no one does. It's just me out there most days. It's my word. I've always said to our children. "A man is only as good as his word."

Today for instance is a prime example of my integrity and honor in completing the task at hand. I failed in the first two attempts to ride the length of my board. Who would of known otherwise? No one. Except me. Oh and the souls who are with me each day. Lil Miss Molly, my mother, my best friend Joe, Linda Paugh... the list goes on and on. All the dozens, perhaps hundreds of cancer victims I have personally known in my life. They would know. And I'm not about to let them down. And I certainly would never let down those who support me here on earth.

Today was a pretty day in the rain...

(Above) Wet leaves and Old Board. October 27, 2010 Photo by RALPH

That's 94, only 271 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


October 26th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 93
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

There's something special and unique about sitting on a surfboard with the warm sun on your face, and a small but glassy swell running. Couple that with the fact that you are all alone. Not a single soul out in the water in either direction. That's what I had today. Much to my surprise and delight, there were waves waiting for me this morning at 18th Street. OK let's put this into perspective here. It was only 1 to 2 feet. But compared to the last 5 days...it was a welcome relief.

"You might catch more than one today Ralph". Erica Nardone said as she loaded her dog into the van. "Maybe...it looks like it might be fun." I answered.

Erica was right. I caught three.

And I really reflected on so much of my life today sitting on my board waiting on a set. It was so completely unexpected. Not so much the waves, but more the peaceful, and comforting aura I was feeling out there. And especially in light of the recent events of the last 18 hours.

My wife and I went and saw the movie "Hereafter" last night in Boston.

We had dropped off our youngest with a couple of her friends at a concert, and while they jammed to the RAP Beats of the Monster Jam, we went and grabbed a bite and watched this much anticipated movie. Cory was more taken by it than myself. It was just not what I expected. It was however worth seeing. Mainly, because I believe in Life After Death. And I believe in some Mediums. Not all. But some for sure.

What I didn't expect, was a vivid dream of my late father early this morning.

I spoke with my dad. I touched him. And I kissed him. I told him I loved him as I touched his shoulder, and then I kissed him on the forehead. It was all so very real. And so clear and comforting. So I guess you could say I'm having a good day today.

(Above) Taken in 1997. Three Generations. Max, Ralph, and Gus. Photo by Cory

That's 93, only 272 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 25th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 92
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

As a surfer and a multi media artist, I live my life with a "flow" mentality. I like flow. A smooth flowing lifestyle. I walk with a flow. I drive with a flow. I am all about flow. And I suppose at one point in my life, I had some kind of a flow hair style. Though (Thank God) no photos exist of that look.

Today I did something that I have never done, in both the first time I did this (10 years ago) and this current undertaking.

With a continuous flow, and never breaking the "flow" movement. I pulled up to 18th Street. Stepped out of my vehicle, opened the hatch to my Commander, pulled out Big Black, walked down the stairs, walked across the low tide sandbar. Walked out to about waist deep water, saw a small wave that I knew I could catch and ride, without breaking my stride, I swung the board around, shoved off and paddled once, and then twice, I stood up and saluted as I rode a clear 12 feet. I stepped off my board, leaned over and picked it up and walked back across the sand, back up the stairs where I opened the hatch of the Commander, put the board in, opened the drivers side door and then with a smooth continuous flow I drove home. (I even hit the Green Light).

One continuous flow. And, this was the first time I ever did that. Flow baby.

That's 92, only 273 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 24th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 91
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Boy did I blow it this morning. How's that? Well, the surf was once again beyond tiny. It was all of 4 to 6 inches. Tops. As I pulled up to 18th Street this AM, my friend Steve Piatti ran by on his daily run and said to me. "Gonna be tough to find a good one today Ralph." I smiled and said "These are the tough days for sure." I carried Big Black down onto the wet sand and stood there and watched a solid 6 inch wave pop up and crumble and dribble across the sand bar. I could of caught that wave. I mean, I had plenty of time to make my move. Instead, I stood there and watched it.

I figured there would be more six inchers struggling to get to the beach.

I was wrong. I stood in the chilly waist deep water waiting for another 6 inch wave for at least 20 minutes. At one point, I had been day dreaming and had forgotten why I was there. Still, nothing bigger than the occasional 4 inch wave would dribble in...I kicked myself for passing on that SIX INCH Keeper. Now I was frustrated. Finally, a 4 to 5 inch wave that looked like a boat wake made it to where I was standing. I shoved off and paddled once, then twice and stood up.

I went my 9 feet and saluted. It wasn't pretty. It wasn't anything but what it was. Another day another wave. I saluted and stepped off.

That's 91, only 274 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 23rd, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 90
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I made a grim discovery this morning. There's a hole in the crotch of my old 2mil suit that you could fit a quarter through. I made mention of a certain part of the male anatomy yesterday being extra chilled. I now know why. You see my friends, I am all about nostalgia. The suit I was wearing the last couple of mornings, is the same suit I wore 10 years ago when I did the first "365 day Tour".

I was feeling melancholy about my past and current endeavor.

I have a brand new XCEL 3/2 and 4/3 from Cinnamon Rainbows that I love. Al beit they are a bit difficult to get in and out of, having to crawl though that stretch hole.
But I love those suits. I wear them when there's actual surf. But on days when it's a pitiful dribble like today and earlier this week. Well, I'm in and out of the water pretty quickly. There's no need to get suited up for a long sesh if I'm only getting my legs
and forearms wet.

So I opted for the quick zip suit.

The problem is, I need to wade out to about waist deep water. And that's when I discovered the hole. I knew something didn't feel right. That suit is all of 12 years old. Maybe older. But I'm thinking it's time I retire that old suit until next Summer.

That cold wake up call this morning, had me singing like the Bee Gees.

That's 90, only 275 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


October 22nd, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 89
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The earlier I head down to the beach, the colder it gets. This morning was chilly. I only wore a 2mil in anticipation of a quick "One and Done". And while I did catch the "one" wave, the standing and waiting in the waist deep water, for that one wave in my 2 mil, was taking it's toll on the family jewels. That cold water creeping up to my waist was slightly uncomfortable. Of course it's nothing compared to what's coming.

Still, there's something about cold water in the early morning hours.

I caught my wave, saluted Molly and scurried back to my vehicle. An elderly couple walking the Wall smiled at me. They were bundled up like it was January. I smiled as I loaded Big Black into the Commander and drove off.

That's 89, only 276 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 21st, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 88
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Praise the lord. The surf came up. It was a whopping 1' today. And let me tell you, it was a welcome relief. After surfing waves 6 inches and below the last couple of days, this one foot swell was a beautiful sight. I caught my one wave and went at least 20 feet. I rode that wave until the fins hit the sand. I saluted and stepped off. Or rather, stumbled off.

I was feeling experimental today as well. How's that?

I wore my wetsuit gloves over my sleeves, as opposed to going under them. There's a reason why you wear them under. I was reminded of that today. *Note to self. Stop experimenting. Just do your freaking job. Sheesh.

That's 88, only 277 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 20th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 87
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

If one is patient enough and you find yourself staring down a virtually flat ocean with two to four inch waves dribbling on the beach. You might get lucky and find that one ROGUE 6 inch wave to ride. That's what I did today. I got me a rogue six incher and I rode that beast at least 10 feet. A foot longer than I needed. I even got in a salute before I stepped off onto the sand.

Speaking of beasts. There was a Moose on the Loose in Hampton yesterday.

(Above) Bullwinkle looking for Love. Oct. 19, 2010 Hampton, NH. Photo by Cory Fatello

This was not the first time we've had Moose running around Hampton. In fact, a few years ago I had two run through my yard. Are they rare? Yes. But not uncommon. Especially during the Rut. This young bull was in rut mode. These love torn giants are just looking for the right cow to strike up a relationship with. I just hope he wasn't hurt by the Fish & Game.

Back to surfing... After two attempts I caught my wave and saluted Molly.

That's 87, only 278 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 19th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 86
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Note to self. Must wear gloves if surfing before 7:00AM. The water temp is warmer than the air temp. So when I got out if the water this AM, my hands were freezing. Need to start wearing gloves. The surf was about the same size as yesterday. About 4- to 6 inches. In fact, the wave I ended up riding was around 2 inches at the end of my ride.

I swear. I looked down and my board was thicker than the wave was tall.

Was it wrong to laugh out loud? Was it wrong to raise my arms in triumph? No and no.
As my buddy Long board Larry said as he peddled by me on his 10 speed this AM..."Another ONE AND DONE Ralph?" ...Yes Larry. ONE AND DONE.
Hand salute-fall out .

That's 86, only 279 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 18th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 85
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Man today was one of the harder days. The ocean looked so flat from the sidewalk. I stood there for several minutes before I finally saw a ripple big enough to move me and Big Black. I saw that one wave and walked down the beach. Wearing just a 3/2 with no boots or gloves. And look, if there was real surf and I had plans on catching more than one wave, I might of opted for booties and gloves. But I'm pretty sure I would stayed in the 3/2, and definitely not worn a hood. No way.

A wave came and I shoved off in waist deep water. I went about 7 feet. Not far enough to count, so I went back out. I could of cheated and said I went 9'...but that would be cheating. And really, why bother getting dressed in a wetsuit every day if that's the case? I'm here on the honor system. I will surf a wave each day, and go at least the length of the board I am riding. Today I need to go nine feet. Another bump popped up and I tried again. This time I went about 20 feet. More than enough. I saluted and stepped off. Another day another wave.

That's 85, only 280 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 17th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 84
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I fell hard on my butt in the shallow water after my first wave today. Oh man that hurt. I guess it's true that you can get hurt in smaller waves easier than you do in bigger waves. I really got bounced hard on my lower back. There was some weird Welsh Corgi gathering at 18th Street today. I must of been distracted by the dozen or so of these low to the ground canines running all over the beach.

I saluted my last wave and hobbled away.

On the way home I saw something today that instantly rolled back the hands of time. I had just left the beach after catching my waves. I was driving up the street when out of the corner of my eye, I saw a young father throwing a football with what appeared to be his young son. The kid looked to be about 5 or 6 years old. The kid was wearing a child's New England Patriot's uniform. Complete with the plastic helmet. I got nostalgic and felt a tinge of sadness at the same time.

I used to do that with my own son about 13 years ago.

Every Sunday during the Fall we would go out and throw the football before the opening kick off. I wanted to pull over and tell this father about it. But I was in my wetsuit and honestly, I'm sure I'm not the only dad who's ever done that.

I kept driving thinking about those fun Sunday afternoons. My young son is now a College Football player. The good news was, he was home for the weekend and he was getting ready to head back to the campus. I told him about the scenario I had just witnessed. And much to my surprise and delight, he hung around a little longer to watch the Patriots first half with me. It was great. Life is fleeting. That's for sure.

Speaking of fleeting how about number 84 Deion Branch today? Oh my God. Is it a coincidence that number 84 did what he did today in that exciting OT win against the Ravens? After all, today was DAY 84 for me. I don't know. I just know that today was both sad and happy for me. We all had a blast at Tony's Surf Shack today.

Thinking of Grampy today too...5 years ago today. We all love and miss you.

That's 84, only 281 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 16th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 83
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Now who would of thought, that the swell would still be here this morning? Not me. That wind was howling all night long and all day long today. In fact, there's still waves as I type this. 6:15PM. But there were waves all right. Ass kicking, butt thumping, break your momma's back kind of waves. Oh man. I got worked out there. Some of those waves at the Wall were doing the old double up and heave, and pitch kind of thing. I actually got dizzy on a couple.

My good friend Ed O'Connell caught me on a couple of fun inside waves. These waves were NOT the set waves. Hardly. The set waves were not makeable. These waves this morning were fast and unforgiving. I barely had time to salute on my last wave. They were that quick. It was take off, pull in, and die. Or at least it felt like that. But at least the sun was shining.

Here's a couple of pics from this morning that Ed O'Connell shot of me.

(Above) I came out of this one. The others I was not so lucky. Photo By Ed O'Connell

(Above) I seem very casual here. But I was not. I was in between ass whooping's. Photo By Ed O'Connell

Be curious to see what tomorrow brings. I won't be surprised either way. Surf or no surf. We'll just have to wait and see.

That's 83, only 282 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 15th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 82
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I really should pay more attention to what I write each day. For the last few weeks I've been boasting about me wearing a 3/2 with no boots and gloves. The water has been warm. So why did I wear a 4/3 with not only boots and gloves but also a damn hood? I don't have a logical answer. I checked the cams this morning. The wind was howling and the rain was still coming down. It looked nasty out there. From the safety and warmth of my own home, I let myself get sucked into thinking that winter had showed up over night. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Yes it was windy and rainy. But the water was still very warm and I knew this the second I hit the surf. I felt silly. No scratch that. I felt like a kook. I was way over dressed. Oh I was plenty warm enough, and the new XCEL 4/3 was an exceptional suit that gave me plenty of flexibility. I just felt over dressed.

However, I did mange to get some really good waves. Even with those windy gusts.

Does this not look like winter? That's what I was thinking before I left the house. The water was still in the mid to high 50's. No boots or gloves. I took these photos before heading out. I actually got a nice barrel on my last wave. But alas my friends, it was the first wave I got where I fired off my first salute to Molly in head to toe rubber! DOH!

That's 82, only 283 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 14th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 81
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Ideally it would be neat to be able to share with all of you something new each day. But that's not been the case. Especially on the days that sort of run together with the same conditions. But I did see something this morning that I have not seen yet since starting this endeavor. Sea Smoke.

Now some of you who live in the tropics or out west coast might not be aware of this natural phenomenon. It's basically what happens when the water temp is warmer than the air temp. It creates this steam like affect on the surface. Or rather, a smoke affect. I did not have my camera with me this morning otherwise I would of snapped a pic. But it was still cool to see. And again, it's a sure sign of what's coming for me.

The wet sand was cold again this morning on my bare feet. And my hands were chilly after catching my wave. It's the cool air temp that's causing me to feel the chill. Still, I caught my wave saluted and left without any fanfare or other mishaps. Tomorrow however should be a horse of a different color (man I'm showing my age with that line). A big Ole Nor'easter is moving up the coast tonight. Should be interesting.

That's 81, only 284 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 13th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 80
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Not that it's any big surprise, but I have come to the obvious conclusion that after surfing two days in the dark, I prefer surfing in the daylight hours. It's just easier. And honestly? My biggest fear about surfing at night was mostly stepping on broken glass. Of all the things that could go wrong, that was my biggest concern. Broken glass.

Of course I realized today, that all I had to do was wear my sandals down to the water's edge, and go out and catch my wave, and then find the sandals and walk back to my vehicle without the worry of getting cut.

So if for some reason I find myself having to surf at night again during these warm months, I'll be sure to wear sandals. I wore sandals today. And the reason why is there's a whole new bottom at 10th street that was not there before. All the beach stones are spread out over a jetty to jetty's worth of real estate. I can't remember which storm might of caused that. I guess I just didn't notice it before today.

At any rate, I wore my sandals on this beautiful beach day. I walked down past the rocks and out onto a raised dry sandbar and stepped out of my sandals and into the water. The waves were perfect. If I was a GI Joe doll I would of been in heaven. They were perfect 1/2 to 1' glassy tubes. So pretty. So sunny. So glassy. So warm. (Yep still in a 3/2 with no boots or gloves).

I saw the wave I wanted and shoved off. I paddled once, then twice and stood up. I saluted and stepped off as the fins hit the bottom. I picked up Big Black, stepped into my waiting sandals, and headed for the vehicle. Two women were approaching about 30 yards away. I wondered what they were thinking about that whole scene they both just witnessed. Do they know? I'm sure they said something to each other. "What the hell was that all about?"

That's 80, only 285 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 12th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 79
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

OK so I got home earlier than expected. 7:30PM. However, it was not early enough to hit the daylight hours. I hit the water at exactly 8:15PM. It was pitch black (again). I took a few photos in the dark. This one below I took of myself was right after I caught my wave. I wore my Molly cover (hat) in the water. The surf was small. Less than a foot. But the water was still very warm.

I wore a 3/2 with NO boots or gloves. It took me a while to catch the one wave. It was hard to see and I had to hold onto my camera. I ended up putting the water camera in my teeth. I had no other way to hold it.

I could hear some dog barking at me.

When I got out of the water and started walking back up the beach. The dog came rushing up to me. I could hear the owner calling her back..."Maggie come!" But clearly Maggie was confused as to what the hell I was doing.

"She's not used to night surfers" I called out in the dark. "Yes I know." The woman answered.."So,just what are you doing out there?" she asked. I told her about the Fundraiser. "Oh I read about you. I'm your witness tonight. I think this is just great."
I thanked her and walked back in the dark to my vehicle.

That's 79, only 286 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 11th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 78
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today was a quick "one and done" in the early morning darkness. It was PITCH BLACK DARK. Barely got wet this morning. But I surfed my wave under the lights from the intersection of High Street and Ocean Blvd, and saluted Molly. No fuss no muss.
I'm heading for the North Country this morning. I won't be back until tomorrow night at 9PM...that means I'll be surfing at night for the 2nd time since starting this and the 3rd time in the dark. Wish me luck. My blog will be late tomorrow...but I'll be logging on and letting you all know.

Happy Columbus Day...go out and discover something good today.

That's 78, only 287 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 10th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 77
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The problem with writing a daily blog or journal is, keeping my personal life out of the daily babble. And as anyone who knows me will attest, nothing and no one is sacred. I document what is happening in and around my life. Like today for instance.

Today is my 23rd Wedding Anniversary. October 10, 1987. Today is also 10-10-10.

And once again, anyone who knows me, knows that I am into the creative number schemes. And clearly 10/10/10 is a once in a lifetime event. When my wife and I first got married I used to drive her crazy when I'd look at our digital clock and see that it was 11:11. I would say it out loud. "Hey baby it's 11:11." Basically to drive her crazy.

But this day? 10/10/10...whoa that's cool. We were going to do something special on this date a few years ago. I knew it was coming. But certain things happened. Like two kids in college, and the economy taking a nose dive put the karbash on that. And that's when I decided that I would do this Fund raiser for the Rowlees. Once I knew we were staying put on 10/10/10 I announced my intentions. "Catch a wave For Molly!"

And how about that wave today? Oh man...this blog just got a little funnier for some of you. The surf was almost flat today. Less than a foot. These are the days I dread because of the difficulty in trying to ride a wave that's only 6 inches high. But I did find a spot at the wall that had a solid 6-8" waves. I drove down to the opening and saw that there were at least a half a dozen of surfers from Quebec sitting on the wall watching the non existing surf.

"Are there any waves out there?" I asked. "Not really." One of them said. "I just need one wave." I looked and saw a wave that looked ridable. "There's one!" I yelled as I rushed to the back of the Commander and pulled out Big Black and ran down the stairs. I'm sure my friends from up north were scratching their heads. I tried to explain to them what I was doing. I think a few understood and may have even been aware of what I was doing.

Long story short, it took me two attempts to catch a wave and ride it the length of my board. After I saluted and stepped off the board I asked "Was that 9 feet?" One of them said "It was at least 10 feet". "Good that's what I need to do, catch at least one wave, and ride it the length of my board. " I was saying this as I scrambled up the stairs where they were all sitting.

That's when it happened. I slipped and fell face first onto the cement stairs.

I was fine, but I dinged the nose of Big Black. Really bad. It was so embarrassing. Especially when they kept asking me if I was alright. "No I'm not alright. I'm an idiot who is completely embarrassed." This is my Karma coming back to bite me in the butt after the column that I wrote a few weeks ago on my weekly blog.

Oh the horror...but the Northern boys were cool. They did not snicker or call me the "K" name. Though they may have after I left. But for that moment they were very good about what they just witnessed.

So that's what happened on my 23rd Wedding Anniversary. 10/10/10.

But come 10/10/12 we are outta here. Hawaii bound. Aloha my brothers and sisters. Cory and I will spend our 25th Silver Anniversary in the Islands. Even if we have to SUP our butts there. Wait did I just write that? Either way, we are going.

Happy Anniversary Cory...I love you.

That's 77, only 288 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


October 9th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 76
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I'm not going to lie. Today I woke up thinking about my mother. It was 3 years ago today, I held onto her as she took her last breath and slipped away. Cancer. It seems hard to believe that she's really gone. Even now, 3 years later. She was the strongest woman any of us ever knew. None of my brothers and sisters would of ever thought that something could take her away, especially against her will. But cancer did.

This is a photo taken on my last day of surfing 365 Days 10 years ago for my dad. I called it "Catch a wave For Gus." My mother was there to witness it all. This is one of my favorite photos. It was both a happy and sad day. Much like I suppose the last day will be for this current mission. "Catch a Wave For Molly."

Looking at this photo brings back fond memories. The kids were still young, and things were still fun for all of us. 10 years is a long time. I miss you Ma, and I gave you a sharp salute today as I rode my wave.

I saw the dedicated Surfrider gang out cleaning the beach this morning. They were my eye witnesses to my wave today. Not that I need witnesses. In fact, if anything it was an honor for me to see these true environmentalists out doing the deeds of the Surf Rider Foundation. No crowds. No fanfare. Just a dozen or so caring individuals. Cleaning the trash from our beaches. God bless them.

Oh and Molly, if I were you I'd have my Mother cook you up some of her famous pasta and sauce. She took that recipe to heaven with her.

That's 76, only 289 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 8th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 75
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The surf is gone. But the warm water remains. It's surprising to me because that wind did blow hard out of the west. And typically, that's the temperature gauge for our water temps. But much to my delight, the water is still warm. That's NO boots and NO gloves and certainly NO hood yet. Still, I only caught one wave today. It was only a foot at best. I rode it about 50 feet and I saluted my friend's Mothers who passed away this week from cancer.

Anne Hammer the mother of longtime surfers Jay Hammer and Curt Hammer, passed away this week and her service was today. Jay an IRAQI Veteran, is a Colonel in the USA and is stationed in Hawaii. He still surfs today. He's been a very good friend over the years. His brother Curt is another friend who used to surf. Curt no longer surfs, but his connection to the surf scene is still strong.

Another local surf connection, Dianne Dewar age 57 lost her battle to cancer this week as well. Dianne was the mother of Mackenzie Dewar and Ryan Dewar. She was the daughter of local icon John Woodburn. May they both Rest in Peace.

So once again, cancer reaches out and takes away our loved ones without remorse.

I hate you cancer...and someday we are going to destroy you once and for all. But until that day comes, I will continue my mission.

That's 75, only 290 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 7th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 74
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

If you lived in Northern New England you would agree that the wind yesterday afternoon was crazy. And not just the wind, but the rain as well. And that wind? Well. it was blowing hard out of the Northeast and East. And clearly, there should of been big surf today. Or rather, bigger than what we got. And what we did get, did not last long. In fact, by late afternoon it was basically gone.

Still, I'm not complaining. I'm just stating the facts.

I got to surf with a handful of close friends today. Kenny Linseman, Billy Ritchie, and Christos Valhouli. We had a few laughs out there. And although the surf was small, I did manage to stick my butt into a couple of hollow sections. Were they barrels? No not really. But they were at least hollow enough for me to get inside and feel good about the session.

Here's a few pics I snapped before I paddled out. Nothing great, but you can at least see what's going on. And clearly, there was surf.

(Above) Yea, there were a few lefts. Oct, 7, 2010 Photo By RALPH

(Above) Nate from CR hooked into a couple of meaty Wall burgers.
Photo By RALPH

(Above) Fun little set with Stanek embedded. Oct, 7, 2010 Photo By RALPH

That's 74, only 291 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


October 6th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 73
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Well what a difference a day makes. Yesterday we were all happy with the New England patriots. Today we are all scratching our heads with the Randy Moss trade. Look, I for one have no idea what it's like to be part of an NFL machine like the New England Patriots, but I do know what it's like to have a weak link in the chain. If Randy was not adhering to the program and causing a disruption with the players and coaches...well it was nice knowing you Randy.

I guess time will tell if the trade was the right move.

So I had the wind driven, whipping rain surf to myself today. Ha! Actually, my buddy Alex showed up to check it out and saw me getting ready to hit it. By the way, I'm still NOT wearing boots or gloves. I know once that wind comes around and blows out of the North West my warm water will leave and not come back until June of 2011. But for the time being...I'm enjoying the warm water.

I caught a nice semi clean chest high wave, and saluted towards Alex. He saluted me back. I went back out for another little right hander before finally calling it a day.
It's funny how I run into certain friends and individuals who are inadvertent witnesses to my quest. Though my real witnesses are those I salute each day. My angels.

That's 73, only 292 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 5th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 72
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

We all stayed up late last night watching the Patriots Dolphins game. Man oh man. Now that was an old fashioned shellacking. Pats win 41-14. And they won convincingly. I carried that feel good feeling out into the water with me today.

So did I surf like a New England Patriot? Not really. I was actually a little stiff this morning. Must of slept on the wrong side. I did however get a bunch of waves out there. I surfed with a couple of friends. Tim and Steve. We had fun.

The surf is hanging around. The wind is still out of the Northeast. That should keep the waves with us for at least another day. Once it goes offshore so will the swell, but for the time being, it's another decent week for surf. I caught my waves, saluted my angels and left the beach feeling good.

On the walk back to my vehicle I stopped and talked with a couple of female surfers. I couldn't help but think, how much this New England surf lifestyle of ours has changed in the last 10 to 20 years. It wasn't that long ago when women felt intimidated by both the cold and the aggro male surfers. That's all changed. And changed for the better.

Molly would of been one of these women surfers in the future. Maybe she already is.

That's 72, only 293 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 4th, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 71
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today was the first day that was a clear indication of what's coming down the pike for me. The wind was wailing out of the Northeast and it was raining pretty hard. If it was another month or two...it would be snow. The conditions at 18th street were awful.
I could barely hold onto my board as I made my way over the wind packed hard sand.

And it was bigger than I thought it was by looking at the cams .

Case in point I paddled hard to get outside as there were no discernable peaks . It was like a big frothing washing machine. I sat next to the rock cropping out there and figured I was far enough outside. Nope. A large set reared up from the mayhem and unloaded on me. The impact caused my board to jar loose from my grip. And when I went to reel it back in, a gust of wind picked up my Merrick and shot it skyward.

Whoa! I laughed to myself...this is getting interesting.

I paddled further out and waited for a decent shaped mass of water. A large left burped up on the outside, and I swung around to pick it off. As I dropped in, I realized that the rip had dragged me over by the rock cropping and I was now bouncing over and through the rocks, as I got to my feet. I've been surfing this spot for many years and I've never had that happen before. I somehow managed to surf over the exposed rocks without hitting any.

I took that as a sign. So I saluted and went straight in. This was clearly a One and Done day. No need to paddle back out into that. Thanks but no thanks.

That's 71, only 294 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 3rd, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 70
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Oh oh, the air temp felt colder on my hands today as I left the water. I'm guessing the water temp is still hovering around 60 degrees. But it's slipping for sure. I was happy to see some remnants from yesterday's little Nicole Nugget. The wind was on it though, blowing out of the Northeast. That's good. We should still have a bump in the morning. Be curious to see what the rest of the week brings.

The wave I caught today was a long walled up right, that sort of crumbled with the side shore chop. I felt kind of like a beginner. Why? Well, I rode that wave as far as I could. You know how some beginners will ride their board into the sand. They just don't know enough to stop. They have not yet mastered the kick-out. I did that today. And I was giggling to myself as I did it. I must of looked awkward. Struggling to maintain my balance as I rode that whitewater wave all the way into the sand.

I saluted Molly all the way...then I stepped off and left. I never looked back.

That's 70, only 295 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 2nd, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 69
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

So the swell from "Nicole" never got anywhere near where the other experts said it was going to be. All the big wave forecast names from "Magic Seaweed" to "Wet Sand" said it was going to be at least 6 feet today. It might of been last night, but it sure wasn't this morning, or this afternoon. I suppose that the surf could of peaked in the middle of the night. But it sure seems like we missed the best of Nicole.

Oh don't get me wrong, it was plenty surfable. It just wasn't what they said it would be. But for me? It was more than enough. Hell, I'll take these waves all day long.

Anytime I can use a board under 7 feet. That's more than enough fun for me.

And that's what I got today. Waist to chest high. There may have been a bigger wave here and there, but for the most part, it was just that. But hey, I'll just let the photos do the talking here. Here's a few that Ed O'Connell shot of me this morning.

(Above) Does this look like fun? I think this was my first wave. Oct. 2, 2010.
Photo by Ed O'Connell

(Above) OK so it wasn't Backdoor Pipe. And it wasn't even Igor, Earl or Danielle.
But it was fun. Oct. 2, 2010. Photo by Ed O'Connell

(Above) A salute for Molly. Oct. 2, 2010. Photo by Ed O'Connell

So far so good, with me and October.

That's 69, only 296 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

October 1st, 2010 -July 26, 2011 Day 68
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I'd love to have a six figure a year job where I could be wrong 50% of the time, and still not be blamed if I was wrong. The Weathermen all predicted that we would be in Torrential downpours by day break today. The remnants of TS Nicole was steaming up the East Coast drenching everyone in her path. I was up at 6:00AM and it did not start to rain until almost 10:30AM. Look, I'm not complaining here, but daybreak was hours ago, and it's just now starting to rain?

I planned my day around this rain. Oh well, the weathermen sheepishly admit they were wrong, but no one blames them. "Oh it's not their fault"...really? Who's fault is it?

The wind is starting to honk out of the Southeast. We have favorable winds up here in Northern New England. Southeast is NOT one of them. I surfed 18th Street again. It's my new quick stop. You know, pull up, hop out, catch a wave, and head home. I'm there all of 10-12minutes. It's getting to be a routine. Almost like going to work. I do know that once the weather starts to turn my routine won't be so routine anymore. But for right now, it feels like a tour. I get up and do the same thing everyday.

I caught another right today. They were breaking further out than yesterday, and seemed to be building. I'd call it all of 3-4'. Not Hawaiian. Not Californian. 3-4' as in the Metric scale. Waist high plus. Call it whatever you want. Just don't call it cold. It's still warm. When this thing cleans up, I better not see a gaggle of Surfers descend on the Wall with full on boots, gloves, and hoodies. It's just not that cold... (yet).

I saluted Molly, my Mother, my old friend Joe, and dear friend Linda today .

So starts the beginning of my favorite month. October.

That's 68, only 297 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph



"CATCH A WAVE FOR MOLLY" ARCHIVED BLOGS

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